A look at how nanotechnology is driving innovation in the cosmetics and personal care sector.
In the cosmetics and personal care industry, the use of nanomaterials (nanospheres, nanoparticles, nanocapsules, oleosomes and liposomes among others) in formulations containing active ingredients such as vitamins or anti-oxidants, has become increasingly common and lead to improvements in the efficacy of sunscreen, anti-aging products and fragrances
Nanomaterials enhance the formulation properties and acceptability of skin and hair care, and allow for a variety of innovative functions and effects, such as improving UV-resistance, offering unique colour effects and strengthening mechanical and chemical bonding. Products on the market incorporating nanomaterials include moisturizing and anti-aging formulations, toothpaste, shampoo, hair conditioner, lipstick, eye shadow, after shave, moisturizer and UV-filters in sunscreens with improved transparency.
In sunscreens, nanoparticles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are efficient UV-filters as they transmit, reflect and scatter the visible part of the solar radiation while they strongly absorb in the UV region. These mineral UV- filters consist of micron-sized aggregates, which are composed of nanosized primary particles.
The European Commission currently estimates that at least 5% of cosmetic and personal care products currently contain nanomaterials. The overall cosmetics and personal care markets was esimated to be around $375 billion in 2011. Based on these figures and estimates for the percentage of products containing nanomaterials, it can be estimated that the 2011 world market for products containing nanomaterials is worth at least $17 billion.
Fragrances
Nano-encapsulated delivery systems help to improve the attributes and performance (e.g. durability, stability) of fragrances that can be negatively affected by changeable environmental conditions (such as light/air). The use of nanocapsules enables more efficient (prolonged) and time-controlled release of the scents. Release of scents can be time-controlled by stimuli such as diffusion, pressure or temperature sensitivity.
Deodorants
Nanoscale silver particles have been incorporated into under-arm deodorants with claims that the silver ions in the product will provide up to 24 hour anti-bacterial protection. Silver nanoparticles have been widely used in products for their anti-bacterial properties, such as creams and gels, and integrated into coatings on metallic and polymeric substances, such as medical dressings, tubing or devices.
Toothcare
Nanoscale hydroxyapatite is already widely used in toothpaste where it forms a protective film on tooth enamel, and can help restore the surface in damaged areas. The material has a strong propensity to bind with protein, and adheres to bacteria and plaque fragments during brushing, facilitating their removal on rinsing from the mouth.
Make-Up
Nanoscale oxides of aluminium, titanium dioxide, iron oxide and precious metals are widely used by large cosmetics companeis in concealer, blush, bronzer/highlighter, foundation, lip gloss, lipstick products as colours, fillers, UV filters or rheological additives.
Hair Care
Nanoscale platinum, metal carbide or nitrides, aluminium oxide, nano liposomes and silicone microemulsions are found in shampoo and conditioning products, including Pureology Nano Works and Nanokeratin. Nanoparticle delivery systems allow for incorporation and deployment of UV-A sunscreens, vitamins and colours in hair products.
Anti-Aging
A major driver for the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics is the growth of the anti-aging product market. A number of cosmetic products have been developed that contain C60 fullerene molecules, which have unique anti-oxidant properties. Nanoparticulate gold has also demonstrated anti-oxidant properties in cosmetics. The use of nanomaterials increases the stability of vitamins in formulations and allows for better skin penetration.
UV Barriers
Nanoparticle zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium oxide (TiO2) are used as broad spectrum, mineral-only UV filters in cosmetic emollients used for sunscreen and skincare and to enhance colour cosmetics formulations to mask wrinkles and fine lines. Nano ZnO and TiO2 retain the UV filtration and absorption properties while eliminating the white chalky appearance of traditional sunscreens.
Delivery
Solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers are used for the controlled delivery of cosmetic agents over a prolonged period of time and have been found to improve the penetration of active compounds into the stratum corneum. There are a number of products on the market containing lipid nanoparticles including NanoRepair (Dr. Rimpler) and Surmer Crème (Isabelle Lancray).
